Doolin in summer is loud, busy, and full. Doolin in winter is something else. The pubs still play music, the weather is properly Atlantic, and you can have a stretch of cliff to yourself. This is the local's version of Doolin and most of its detractors have not seen it.
What is open
The three music pubs (McGann's, McDermott's, O'Connor's) all stay open year-round. The Russet at Bistro stays open most of the winter. Doolin Hostel and most B and Bs operate through the year. The bus to Galway and Ennis runs but on a reduced schedule.
What is closed
The Aran Islands ferries from Doolin pier do not run in winter. The Cliff Cruise boats stop in October. The Doolin Cliff Walk shuttle stops in October. The Cliffs of Moher visitor centre is open year-round but with shorter hours. Some smaller cafes close from November to March.
Is the music still on in winter?
Yes. Sessions in McGann's and McDermott's run most weekends through winter and several weeknights. The pace is slower than summer and the sessions are more local; tourists thin out and the regulars come back. Many serious trad listeners say winter Doolin has the better music.
How is the weather?
Wet and windy. November through January is properly Atlantic; gales are normal. Temperatures rarely drop below five degrees but the wind makes it feel colder. Daylight is limited; sunset is at four thirty in mid-December. February and March start to lengthen and the storms thin out. April is when the season properly returns.
Can I still walk the cliffs?
Yes, but with more caution. The Doolin Cliff Walk to the visitor centre and back is doable any day the wind is below thirty kilometres an hour. In a gale, do not attempt it; the path is exposed and falls have happened. Check the wind forecast (Met Eireann) before setting off. Even in fair winter weather, bring proper waterproofs and layered warm clothing.
What about the Burren in winter?
Excellent. The Burren is at its most stark and dramatic in winter, with the limestone pavement bare of summer foliage. The walking trails in the Burren National Park are open year-round. The light is softer and the photographs are better. Most of the Burren visitor sites (Caherconnell, the Burren Centre at Kilfenora, the Burren Perfumery) operate reduced winter hours; check before driving.
What is good about visiting Doolin in winter?
You can get a seat at any pub. You can book accommodation at last minute. The Atlantic is wild and the cliffs are spectacular when the seas are big. The food in the pubs is properly local. The locals have time to talk to you. Prices are lower than summer.
What to bring
Proper waterproof rain gear, a hat, gloves, layered base and mid layers. Walking boots that have been tested in mud. A windproof jacket that actually blocks wind, not just a soft shell. Patience for changeable weather; you may get sun and gale in the same hour.
Where to stay
Most B and Bs stay open. Doolin Hostel is the budget option year-round. Hotel-style accommodation includes the Hotel Doolin (which is open year-round) and the Inishmore Hotel. Self-catering cottages are widely available and often heavily discounted in winter.
Is there enough to do for a long weekend in winter?
Three days. Day one: the Doolin Cliff Walk to Knockardakin and back, with lunch at the visitor centre. Day two: a Burren day with Poulnabrone, Caherconnell, and the Burren Perfumery for lunch. Day three: morning at Black Head and Fanore beach (the surfers come here in winter when the swell is right), afternoon trad session at McGann's. That is enough to fill a long weekend without rushing.
What you miss
The Aran Islands are off the menu in winter from Doolin. So are the cliff cruise boats. If those are essential to your trip, come from April to October instead. Otherwise, winter Doolin is a different and arguably better experience.