Thirty minutes on the DART from Pearse Street and you step off into a fishing village with a lighthouse on the horizon, lobster rolls on the pier, and one of the best coastal walks in the country right on your doorstep. Half of Dublin makes this trip regularly. Somehow it still feels like a secret.
Howth sits at the tip of a rocky peninsula north of Dublin Bay, and it rewards the people who get there early and stay long. This is a full guide to doing it properly, from the first cafe to the last pint.
Getting There
The DART is the whole point. Howth is the northern terminus of the DART line, which means you board at Connolly, Tara Street, Pearse, or any of the southside stations and ride it all the way to the end. The trip takes around 30 to 35 minutes from city centre and the train drops you right on the harbour, five steps from the seafood stalls. No car park stress, no traffic on the Malahide Road, no navigating the one-way system. Just step off the train and you are already there.
DART runs every 10 to 15 minutes during the day on weekends. A standard fare from the city centre costs a few euro with the Leap Card and is significantly cheaper than parking even if you were inclined to drive. If you are doing a day trip from Dublin and want to combine multiple stops, you can get off at Howth, walk the cliff, then continue on the DART to another destination on the way back. The full list of Dublin day trips without a car has more ideas for combining Howth with the wider area.
The Cliff Walk
There are four walking loops on Howth Head, ranging from a 30-minute easy stroll to a serious 8km circuit that takes in the full perimeter of the headland. Most people do some version of the middle option, the Red Trail or the Green Trail, which gives you the lighthouse views, the dramatic cliff edges, and the open sea out toward Wales on a clear day.
The classic route: turn left out of the DART station, walk through the village, and pick up the cliff path at the far end of the East Pier. The path climbs steadily for the first 20 minutes then levels out along the top of the cliffs. You walk with Ireland's Eye to your left, a small uninhabited island about a kilometre offshore, and the open Irish Sea stretching ahead. On a clear day you can see the Wicklow Mountains behind Dublin, the Mourne Mountains in Northern Ireland, and, in theory, Snowdonia in Wales.
The Baily Lighthouse appears about halfway round, sitting at the very tip of the headland on a rocky outcrop. It has been in operation since 1814. You cannot go inside but you can get close enough to photograph it properly, and the view back toward Dublin Bay from that point is worth stopping for.
The full circuit ends back in the village. Allow two to three hours for the complete loop, including stops. Wear proper footwear. The paths are well maintained but there are uneven rocks, exposed sections with no barrier on the cliff edge, and it can get slippery after rain. Families with young children tend to stick to the lower, easier sections near the pier.
The Seafood on West Pier
This is the main event for a lot of people and it is as good as the reputation suggests. The stalls along the West Pier sell fresh crab claws, smoked salmon, prawns, oysters, and crab sandwiches from late morning onward. Prices are reasonable and you eat outside on the pier with the fishing boats behind you and the sea in front.
Octopussy's is the most famous stall and usually has the longest queue. The fresh crab claws with brown bread are the thing to get. The smoked salmon is excellent. There is also good fish and chips at a handful of places in the village if you want to sit down.
For a proper restaurant meal, Aqua on the West Pier has been doing seafood for decades and the views from the upstairs dining room across Dublin Bay are genuinely special. The full Dublin food scene beyond Howth is worth exploring separately, particularly if you want to know where locals are actually eating in 2026.
Howth Market
The market runs at the DART station every weekend and is genuinely good. Bread, cheese, preserves, hot food, crafts. It is at its best between 10am and 2pm when the stalls are fully set up and the cliff walkers are filtering back. Worth a browse even if you are not buying anything, though most people end up buying something.
Howth Castle Grounds
The castle has been here since 1177 and is still privately owned by the Gaisford-St Lawrence family. The grounds include a spectacular rhododendron garden that peaks in May and June when the hillside above the village turns completely pink. Outside the flowering season it is quieter but still worth a walk, and the gardens are free to enter. The castle itself is not open to the public.
The Evening Return
One of the underrated pleasures of a Howth day is coming back on the DART in the late afternoon, tired and fed, watching the light change over Dublin Bay as you pull into the city. It is a better way to return from anywhere than arriving in traffic.
If you want a pint before leaving, the Bloody Stream is right at the station and has a beer garden that fills up on sunny afternoons. For a wider selection of Dublin pubs worth visiting, the guide to Dublin pubs beyond Temple Bar covers the better options around the city.
How long does the Howth cliff walk take?
The full cliff walk loop takes between two and three hours at a relaxed pace, including stops for photos and views. The full circuit is roughly 8km. If you are short on time, the shorter Yellow Trail is about 3km and takes around 45 minutes, covering the East Pier and the lower cliff path without the full ascent. The Red Trail is the classic option at around 6km, taking in the Baily Lighthouse viewpoint. All loops start and finish near the DART station.
Is the Howth cliff walk difficult?
The main loop is a moderate walk. There is a sustained climb at the start and some uneven terrain along the top, but nothing that requires special fitness. The harder sections are the steep descents on the back of the headland, which can be slippery after rain. Good walking shoes or trainers with grip are worth it. The easier lower trails near the pier are fine in ordinary footwear. Dogs are very welcome on all trails and you will see dozens of them on any given Sunday morning.
What should I eat at Howth?
The seafood stalls on West Pier are the reason most people come. Fresh crab claws with brown bread are the thing to order. There are usually oysters and smoked salmon as well. The queue at the busy stalls moves quickly. For fish and chips, several places in the village do a solid version. If you want a sit-down lunch with Dublin Bay views, Aqua on the West Pier is the most well-known restaurant. Budget around €15 to €20 per person for a pier lunch including something to drink.
How do I get to Howth from Dublin city centre?
The DART is the best option by a considerable margin. Board at Connolly, Tara Street, Pearse, or any other DART stop on the northside of the city. Howth is the last stop on the northern branch of the line. The journey from city centre takes 30 to 35 minutes. DART runs every 10 to 15 minutes on weekends. A single fare with Leap Card costs around €2 to €3 depending on the number of zones. There is no need to book or check timetables in advance.
Can you swim at Howth?
Yes. The Forty Foot at Sandycove is the more famous Dublin sea swimming spot, but Howth has its own swimming at the Nose of Howth and at a few smaller coves around the headland. The water is cold year round because it is the open Irish Sea. The swimming community is active in Howth and you will see people in the water most mornings regardless of weather. There are no changing facilities at the wild spots, so bring a change of clothes and a towel.
Is Howth worth a full day?
Yes, easily. The cliff walk takes two to three hours, the market and pier lunch take another hour or two, and there is plenty to do in the village if you want to extend the afternoon. Most people are happy after four to five hours. If you arrive early, say around 9am, you can do the full cliff walk before the crowds build up, have a seafood lunch, browse the market, and be back in Dublin city centre by mid-afternoon with time to spare. If the weather is good, there is no better way to spend a day off in Dublin.