Killarney National Park covers 26,000 acres of lakes, mountains, native oak woods and gardens, and it is the oldest national park in Ireland. It is also one of the few places in Western Europe where you can walk through ancient native woodland of the kind that covered most of the continent before farming.

The lakes are glacial

The three Lakes of Killarney, Lough Leane, Muckross Lake and the Upper Lake, were carved out by the same glaciers that built the MacGillycuddy's Reeks ten thousand years ago. They are connected by a short stretch of river called the Long Range, which you can boat through.

The oak forest predates the farms

The Reenadinna yew wood and the surrounding oak forests in the park have never been cleared for agriculture. Some of the oaks date back four hundred years, and the wood floor is mossy and undisturbed in a way that almost no Irish woodland is anymore.

Native red deer have been here continuously

The red deer in the park are the only native herd in the country. Every other red deer in Ireland descends from Victorian-era reintroductions. Late autumn is rutting season and the bellowing of the stags carries across the lakes.

Five things you should actually do

  • Walk to Torc Waterfall. It is twenty minutes from the car park and the path is paved. Most visitors stop at the bottom. Keep going up the steep stairs above the falls and the woods open out into a quieter trail with views down toward Muckross.
  • Take a jaunting car from the gates of Muckross House. Yes, it feels touristy. Yes, the drivers are good. They have memorised every story about the lakes and they know which views to stop at.
  • Cycle the Old Kenmare Road. Bike rental in Killarney town. The road is closed to cars for most of its length. It runs from the back of Muckross House up through the park toward Galway's Bridge and Kenmare.
  • Boat to Innisfallen Island from Ross Castle, where there is a 7th century monastic ruin in the middle of Lough Leane. You hire a small boat and bring a packed lunch.
  • Climb Torc Mountain. About two and a half hours up and back, on a properly maintained path. The view from the top covers the whole park.

Practical notes

The park is open and free. Muckross House charges admission for the indoor tour but the gardens are free. The main entry points are at Muckross, Ross Castle and the Knockreer estate, all within walking distance of the town. There is no need to drive into the park itself; the trails connect everything.