Clare Island and Inishturk are the two inhabited islands sitting in the mouth of Clew Bay, both reachable by ferry from Roonagh Pier near Louisburgh, about thirty minutes' drive from Westport. They are the quieter alternatives to Achill, with a fraction of the visitors.
Clare Island
The bigger and more accessible of the two. Population around 160. About 16 square kilometres, dominated by Knockmore mountain at 462 metres. The island has a small lighthouse, the ruins of Grace O'Malley's tower house (the 16th century pirate queen who lived here), a few cafes, and one of the best beaches in the bay at the harbour. The ferry takes about thirty minutes from Roonagh.
Inishturk
Smaller, quieter, with a population of around 50. The island is rugged and the walking is more spectacular. There is one community centre with a cafe, a church, and limited accommodation. The ferry is less frequent than to Clare Island, often once a day in summer, sometimes only on certain days. It is a place for people who want serious quiet.
How long do I need on Clare Island?
A day if you walk to the lighthouse and back from the harbour, with a stop at Grace O'Malley's tower. Two days if you also climb Knockmore mountain (which is a half-day round trip from the harbour). Several visitors come for a long weekend and use the time to walk all the trails and the full coast.
How much does the ferry cost?
Around twenty euros return for adults to either island. Schedules at Clare Island Ferry Service for Clare Island and Inishturk Ferry Service for Inishturk. Both run from Roonagh Pier. Book in summer; the boats are small and weekends fill up.
Should I bring a bike?
For Clare Island, yes. Bike rental is available at the harbour for around fifteen euros a day. The island is small enough to ride round in three hours, and the roads are quiet. Inishturk is too small and rugged for riding; walking is the right pace.
What about food and accommodation?
Clare Island has the Sailor's Bar at the harbour, the Macalla Farm cafe, and the Clare Island Lighthouse (which now operates as a high-end accommodation with a restaurant). Several B and Bs and self-catering cottages. Inishturk has the community centre cafe and limited self-catering. Both islands have grocery shops with basic supplies.
Is the Lighthouse Hotel worth the cost?
The Clare Island Lighthouse is an extraordinary place to stay, a working lighthouse converted into a five-room hotel with a restaurant. It is at the most exposed point of the island. Around 250 to 350 euros per night with breakfast. Yes if you want one of the most singular accommodation experiences in Ireland, no if you are looking for value.
Which island should I choose?
Clare Island for the day trip; better infrastructure, easier ferry, more to see. Inishturk if you want a properly remote experience and you are willing to plan around the ferry schedule. Many regular Mayo visitors do Clare Island multiple times before they get to Inishturk; it is worth saving for a return visit.
Grace O'Malley
The tower house at Granuaile's Castle in Clare Island harbour was the headquarters of Grace O'Malley, who controlled west Mayo and parts of Galway in the late 16th century, traded and raided across the Atlantic, and famously sailed to England to negotiate with Elizabeth I. The ruined tower is small but the history is large.
The Knockmore walk
Walking up Knockmore from the harbour is a half-day round trip. The trail is signposted and not technical; the summit is a ridge with views across Clew Bay to Croagh Patrick. A clear day makes the walk; in cloud it is just bog.