Doolin is a tiny village in north Clare with a reputation, fairly earned, for being one of the best places in Ireland for traditional Irish music. The reputation rests on three pubs that play sessions almost every night in season, often with internationally known musicians sitting in.

The three pubs

McDermott's is the locals' choice. The session room is to the right of the bar and it gets going earlier than the others, often by 9 PM. Less crowded than the others.

Gus O'Connor's is the most famous and the most touristy. The session here is excellent but the room is small and fills up by 9.30. Get there before nine for a seat.

McGann's is the third pub, just up the road. Its session has a more contemporary feel, with younger players and occasional non-trad guest spots. Often quieter than O'Connor's.

What a session actually is

It is not a concert. The musicians are seated together at a corner table or in a side room. They play tunes for themselves, choosing them as they go, sometimes following one tune with a related one in a set. There is no setlist and no announcements. The audience listens, has a pint, talks quietly to friends. Clapping happens at the end of tunes but never during them.

Etiquette

  • Do not request songs. The musicians are playing for themselves; this is not a paid gig.
  • Do not film at length. A short phone clip is fine. A continuous video is rude.
  • Buy the musicians a drink at the bar if you have particularly enjoyed a set. They will not refuse.
  • Talking is allowed but at conversational volume. The bar will get loud as the night goes on, that is normal.
  • Tipping is not expected unless there is a tip jar visible.

What you will hear

Standard trad sessions feature reels (two-four time, fast), jigs (six-eight time, lilting), hornpipes, polkas and slow airs. Songs in English or Irish are sometimes sung between instrumental sets. Common instruments are fiddle, flute, accordion, concertina, tin whistle, uilleann pipes and bouzouki. Bodhrans (the Irish frame drum) appear in some sessions but are not always welcome.

Best months

April through October. The pubs run sessions every night from May to September. October to March, sessions still happen but the schedule is unpredictable; phone ahead.

Eating before the session

All three pubs do food, generally until about 9 PM. The food is honest and the portions are big. McDermott's has the best pub food in town. If you want a step up, the Russet at Bistro on the road to the cliffs does fine dining.