The Cliffs of Moher are about fifteen minutes by car from Lahinch. Most visitors do them in a rush, thirty minutes at the visitor centre, photo at the cliff edge, back on the bus. If you are in Lahinch already, you can do them much more slowly and properly. Here is how.

Morning: the coastal walk

The Doolin to Cliffs of Moher walk is the proper way to see them. It is roughly eight kilometres along the cliff edge, starting at Doolin pier, ending at the visitor centre. The path runs along the very top of the cliffs. There are no railings for most of it, and on a windy day you should not bring small children. The walk takes about three hours at a relaxed pace with photo stops.

You can do the walk one-way and use the local shuttle bus to get back, or do half-and-back. Park in Doolin, walk south for an hour, turn around. That gives you the dramatic central section without doing the whole thing.

Lunch: in Doolin

Doolin's three pubs all do lunch. Gus O'Connor's is the most touristy. McDermott's tends to be the local choice. McGann's does a decent crab claws and a good Guinness.

Afternoon: the boat trip

This is the part most visitors skip and it is the best part. From Doolin pier, Doolin2Aran Ferries run the cliff cruise, an hour-long boat trip that takes you to the foot of the cliffs, looking up. From the water, the cliffs look completely different. You see the seabird colonies, the Aileens wave (the big-wave surf spot used by tow-in surfers), and the strata in the rock.

The boat goes out three or four times a day in season, weather permitting. Twenty five euro adults, less for children. Book the day before in summer.

Late afternoon: the visitor centre, briefly

If you have time, drive up to the visitor centre and walk to O'Brien's Tower at the top. The cafe in the visitor centre is decent. The cliff edge here, on the safer side of the wall, is the angle that ends up on most of the postcards.

Evening: back in Lahinch

Twenty minute drive back. Dinner at Barr Tra or the Lahinch Surf Hotel. A pint at Kenny's afterwards. You will have done the Cliffs more thoroughly than ninety percent of visitors.