Glendalough, in the Wicklow Mountains, is a sixth century monastic settlement set between two glacial lakes in a narrow steep valley. It is one of the most visited places in Ireland after Trinity College and the Cliffs of Moher, and yet most visitors only see about a third of what is there. Here is the version that locals walk.

The valley itself

Glendalough means valley of the two lakes. The lakes are the Upper and the Lower, separated by a mile of river and a strip of monastic ruins. The valley sides are steep and oak-covered. Glaciers cut the basin out about ten thousand years ago and left a U-shape that you can see clearly from the upper trails.

Saint Kevin and the monastery

Kevin of Glendalough founded the original hermitage here around 588 AD. The settlement that grew up around his cell became one of the most important centres of learning in early medieval Ireland. The round tower, the cathedral, Kevin's Kitchen, the Reefert church and the Priest's House are the visible remains.

The five things most visitors miss

  • Saint Kevin's Bed. A small cave on the cliff above the Upper Lake, where Kevin reportedly slept and prayed. It is across the lake from the main monastic site and you can only see it from the lake shore. Bring binoculars.
  • The Spinc walk. The proper walk in Glendalough is the boardwalk up to the top of the Spinc ridge, looking down at the valley from above. About five hours round-trip, well-marked, mostly stable underfoot. The view from the top is the best in Wicklow.
  • The Reefert church. Most people stop at the round tower. Reefert is fifteen minutes' walk further west, set on a knoll above the river, and is much quieter. The graveyard around it has some of the oldest legible gravestones in the country.
  • The Saint Kevin Way. The 30-kilometre pilgrim path from Hollywood village to Glendalough. Most people will not do the whole thing, but the last six kilometres, from Glendalough into the lower lake, follow what may be the original medieval pilgrim route.
  • The Glenealo Valley. Continuing up past the Upper Lake, the trail follows the Glenealo river deeper into the mountains. It is much quieter than the main lake area and the views are wilder.

Practical notes

The visitor centre is at the entrance to the lower lake. Free entry. Parking is paid in the official car parks (four euros for the day). Get there before ten if you are visiting in summer; the upper lake car park fills by eleven.

It is forty five minutes from south Dublin by road. Bus service from Dublin runs daily but is limited.