Dublin is small for a capital. You can walk from Heuston Station to the Docklands in about an hour, and on the way you pass two cathedrals, a Viking longhouse foundation, the oldest still-functioning library in the country and three of the buildings James Joyce wrote about. The river splits the city, the north side has O'Connell Street and Croke Park, the south side has Trinity, Stephen's Green and Temple Bar. Most visitors stick to the south side. Locals will tell you that is a mistake.

The food scene has changed completely in the last ten years. There are still old reliable pubs serving stew and toasties, but Stoneybatter, Drumcondra and Smithfield now have small restaurants worth crossing the city for. Coffee is good and everywhere.

Dublin Airport sits about half an hour north of the centre by bus. The Aircoach and the 16 do the same trip for less than half the taxi fare.